
The prospect of directly referencing a recipe that I’ve learned at The French Culinary Institute is a bit of a daunting one. I don’t want to anger the school I adore by violating copyright or anything like that, but at the same time, I want to document what I’m learning for my family, my friends, and myself. So what’s a girl on her way to chef-dom to do? Well, I’ve come up with a sort of “middle ground,” where I borrow a bit of what I’ve learned in class and apply it to my own culinary brain, creating a sort of Frankenstein’s Monster hybrid of me and, um, a hilarious, whip-cracking character of a chef from Corsica? Weird. (Cue the theremins…)
I’ve recently had my very first class about fish. I thought I knew a thing or two about working with fish, but as with many nights at school, I’ve been profoundly humbled. Filleting proved to be a much more difficult task than I imagined (especially when faced with a demo given by a right-handed chef, only to return my left-handed self to my workstation entirely turned around). With a little practice, however, I think I can get the hang of it. Cutting, shaping, and folding a piece of parchment paper into a tight little package seemed an easy enough prospect, especially for someone with 5 years of design school under her belt. Sadly, I realized I was mistaken as the chef came running to my workstation screaming “no, no, no!” and taking over for my incapable hands. Somehow, my finished product emerged from the oven and earned a proud smile and a “very nice!” from the chef (and he’s tough to impress, believe me!). It’s clear to me, though, that I could benefit from some practice. And in this spirit, I present to you attempt #2 at the method of cooking “En Papillote,” which I’ve done here with pompano instead of striped bass like we did in class. (Hey, that rhymes!) For some inexplicable reason (har, har), I heard the chef’s voice booming over my shoulder the entire time I practiced this: ”Stop! Stop! Poot down your fillet knife and give to me! You don’t need keel your feesh again like a maniac – iz already dead, eh?” I love the man. After only a few weeks, his ruthlessness and intimidation have made me ten times the cook I was before.
I won’t lie to you. You need to spend some time on this dish to make it properly. (Frankly, I’m in awe after making it a second time that I was able to do it so quickly in class! Something about that magic uniform, I guess…) The payoff for your time, however, is huge. This dish is utterly fantastic, if I do say so myself. The presentation is wonderfully sense-encompassing. It arrives to the table like a beautiful little gift package, inspiring thoughts of Christmas morning and birthday parties. And when it’s cut open, you breathe in the most wonderful aromas (I got an enthusiastic “Smells amazing!!!” from the bf), you see a lovely array of colors, and of course, you taste a series of wonderful flavors. I’m certain this dish will remain in my repertoire in all kinds of forms, and I hope my readers enjoy it too. Please note that if you have any questions about this recipe, please email me and I will answer you as best I can. I am here to help!
Ingredients:
For the fish:
2 4-6 oz. fillets of pompano (or other firm, white fish such as cod, bass, orange roughy, red snapper, etc.)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the tomato fondue:
3 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced small
1 shallot, minced fine
1 clove garlic, minced
Neutrally-flavored oil, such as canola or vegetable
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
For the mushrooms:
6-8 oz. package white button mushrooms, rinsed quickly of dirt, dried, peeled, trimmed of stems, and minced fine
1 shallot, minced fine
1 tbsp. butter
Neutrally-flavored oil, such as canola or vegetable
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
For the vegetable garnish:
Approximately 1 small-to-medium carrot, cut into 2 1/2″ lengths, and julienned
1 leek, white parts only, cut into 2 1/2″ length, rinsed thoroughly and julienned
1 stalk celery, cut into 2 1/2″ lengths, and julienned
1 tbsp. butter
Neutrally-flavored oil, such as canola or vegetable
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper
For the assembly:
Capful of white wine (make sure it’s something you’re willing to drink, please!)
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 egg, beaten lightly with a fork
Instructions:
1. Prepare 3 circles of parchment paper that are the same diameter of the saucepan you are using, and that have a small hole cut out in the center. Set aside.
2. Prepare the tomato fondue. Heat just enough oil in a small saucepan over medium heat to coat the bottom of the pan. Add shallots and cook until just translucent (you don’t want to brown them). Add tomatoes and garlic, cover with one of the parchment paper circles (NOTE: this paper lid allows less steam to escape as the tomatoes and shallots release their water content in the cooking process, which creates a more tender, juicy product – I’ve found this method to work wonders!). Cook over low heat until virtually no liquid remains in the pan. (About 8-10 minutes.) Remove lid, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve tomatoes in a bowl, and rinse out saucepan.
3. Prepare the mushrooms. Heat a small amount of oil and the tbsp. of butter in the saucepan. When melted, add the shallots and cook until just translucent. Add mushrooms and cover with a parchment paper circle. Lower flame, and again cook until virtually no liquid remains. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve mushrooms in another bowl, and rinse out saucepan.
4. Prepare the vegetable garnish. Heat a small amount of oil and the tbsp. of butter in the saucepan. Keeping mounds separated by vegetable, gently place the carrot, celery, and leek juliennes in the pan. Cover with a parchment paper circle. Lower flame, and again cook until virtually no liquid remains. Season to taste with salt & pepper. Remove vegetables and reserve on a plate, taking care that juliennes are kept separated by vegetable.
5. Assemble the papillotes. Preheat oven to 450º F. Cut 2 pieces of parchment paper from roll that are about 20″ long. Fold each in half, and trim with scissors so that when you unfold the paper, it creates a heart shape. Take care to trim as little away as possible. Lay one of the heart shapes flat on a work surface. In the center of one side of the heart, place a few tablespoons of tomato fondue and a few tablespoons of mushrooms side by side. Lay one of the fish fillets over the top, and season with salt and pepper. On top of the fish, place a bundle of the julienned carrots in the center, and a bundle of leek julienne to one side, and a bundle of celery julienne on the other. Pour a 1/2-capful of white wine over the top, and top with a sprig of thyme. Using a pastry brush, brush the fold line of the parchment paper with the beaten egg, as well as the entire outline around one side. Fold heart shape closed over the fish and vegetables, and press the edges together to create a seal. Working a little bit at a time, fold the edges in toward the fish. Brush folded edge with more egg, and fold the edges in one more time. The idea here is that you want to create an airtight seal. Brush the entire top of the package with egg. Repeat with other piece of parchment paper.
6. Heat just enough oil in a frying pan to coat the bottom. When hot, place papillote in pan carefully, and swirl it around a bit to make sure it doesn’t stick to the pan. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until you notice that the package begins to puff up. Repeat with the other package. Place both packages on a foil-lined half-sheet pan and place in the preheated oven for about 10-12 minutes, until puffed and golden brown.
7. Place each package on a plate with a few lemon wedges, and cut open at the table.
Yield: 2 little bundles of joy
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